A rift in West Bay – Oyster Bags

A rift in West Bay (March 5, 2007)

“Strung out across the water at high tide was a half-acre of what looked like thousands of black floating purses, each almost 4 feet long. Filled with oysters, the bags were laid out in a grid held together with 5,000 feet of plastic line and 400 feet of chain. The bags were tethered to the ocean floor by eight anchors.”

Cape Cod Times today has a story about angry waterfront property owners in Osterville looking to ban floating bags in West Bay put there by a local aquaculturist. The guy who put the bags out claims they have been used for a “forty years” in the Three Bays area, but I’ve never seen them. The Cotuit Oyster Company has grants in Cotuit Bay, and in the area known as the Narrows, but I’ve never seen them use the bags in the past. Time was the only evidence there was an oyster bed was a black and white stick in the water, and years ago, a tree branch stuck in the mud.

Aquaculture is a growing business on the Cape. A buddy has a quahog grant outside of the harbor on the SW side of Dead Neck, but oysters do better inside where the salinity is lower due to the fresh water springs and rivers running into the bay system.

Here is the Three Bays Preservation report, or rather point of view to the town opposing the bags.

update: a reader sent a link to the Friends of West Bay’s website. It has an amazing photo, scraped here.

Farch reconsidered

Another sunny Sunday and taxes can wait another weekend, so Daphne and I climbed into the car, plugged in the GPS, and headed to Moby Dick country — the South Coast from Rhode Island to Cape Cod. This was a backyard adventure, the kind I have been meaning to do for … oh … 48 years, and having done it wondered why I haven’t done it sooner. One answer is the GPS. (thank you Uncle Fester!) It would have been nearly impossible to poke around the shore without it.We drove down 195 past the exits with names of town we had never visited, at least not in any sort of detail, and made our start in Rhode Island at Little Compton, a seaside village on Sakonnet Point that is full of saltwater farms with expansive views down open fields lined with miles of stone walls over saltmarshes to Block Island Sound.

We poked around, then drove back east through villages like Adamsville and Westport, past Horseneck Beach and eventually into Padanarum for an awesome lunch of fish and chips and chowder at the Black Bass Grill. Onwards into New Bedford, walled off from its waterfront by a gigantic levee of orange stone, a hurricane barrier built after the storms of the 30’s and 50s trashed the home port of the Pequod. New Bedford is a sad place, a tattered town, but hope springs eternal and I said to Daphne if I were to ever start an interactive marketing company I’d take a mill with a great water view near the whaling museum and set up shop.

Then across the bridge to the more genteel Fairhaven, homeport of Captain Joshua Slocum, the first man to sail alone around the world. We poked coastward to West Island, driving over causeways dividing Buzzards Bay from the inshore marshes, snapping pictures as the skies cleared and flooded the Farch skies with a tease of spring. (One more week to daylight standard time!)

Through Mattapoissett, the port where my great-great grandfather’s whaling ship, the Massachusetts was built, making a note to return to pick the brains of the historical society in the center of the village. And after lingering for the sunset over Mattapoissett harbor, returned to Cotuit for dinner and the end of the weekend. A very cool day, enabled by a GPS, no agenda, and a lot of lazy curiosity.

Farch

Tony Perkins at the Red Herring Magazine first came up with the merger of February and March in the late 90s when the magazine slipped on shipment and had to combine two months into one. So he took two crummy months and turned them into one uber crummy month: Farch.

While some may look at this portmanteau word as a mere combination of February and March, I prefer to refer to it etymologically as “F%^&*#g March” — the longest month of the year and the worst stretch in the calendar, the low point of New England. Looking out a window on a rainy day on Cape Cod in Farch is like looking out at a black and white movie, shot in Scandinavia by a manic-depressive director considering suicide. There’s no snow to make it a fluffy Currier & Ives landscape, just dead grass and piles of dog excrement moldering in the drizzle. There is no color at all. Nothing. Utterly monochromatic. Grim old people trudge the sidewalks. The sky looks like a bruised sweatshirt.
John Malone — the man of the cable industry, dealmaker extraordinaire, and one of my heroes — once said of the corporate scandals of 2000-2002 that financial malfeasance was like dog shit in the back yard. It’s always there under the snow, but come March it starts to surface.

But I digress. If you consider the nadir of Farch, when one’s notion of a good weekend is tax prep, then it’s easy to understand why New England is experiencing a negative trend in population and why places like Fall River and Fitchburg look like sets from Dawn of the Dead. That said, the sun is shining today, taxes can wait, and I intend to get on the ergometer, row a few thousand meters, take the dogs for a beach walk, and prepare myself for a month of solid travel capped with an April trip to Beijing, my second China trip in a year. That is something to look forward to.

What I am not reading

Mark Helprin is a big favorite of mine. A Soldier of the Great War, Refiner’s Fire, Winter’s Tale, Memoir From Antproof Case — all very good books and enjoyable reads.

Then my brother-in-law over the Christmas holidays asked me if I had read Freddie and Fredericka. Nope. So I bought it, the wife stole it, left it lying around, and I gave it a try last week.

And put it down. I don’t know. I gave it my best, but satire is not Helprin’s strong suit and maybe it was seeing Helen Mirren in The Queen a couple weekends ago, but satire about the British Royal Family doesn’t float my boat and I tossed it down after 100 pages.

I also started and have stalled on Pynchon’s latest, Against the Day. It did the usual Pynchon trick of sucking you in with a slightly comprehensible plot until about page 100 when the drugs kick in, or whatever it is that makes Pynchon drift off into Pynchon-land. So I know I need to suck it up, just as I sucked it up with Gravity’s Rainbow and get into Pynchon mode (which is like reading Shakespeare, it takes a while to get into the language), and slog through it. I still haven’t finished Mason/Dixon, but I still maintain Gravity’s Rainbow is the most important novel of our times and did more to shape my personal weltschauung than any other piece of philosophy, art, or sermon.

Brian Rowe

Last week a close family friend passed away, the father of a good friend, and a good friend to my mother and my late father. His name was Brian Rowe, he was an extraordinary man, the personification of “larger than life.” He’s the big guy on the left in the photo below.

Brian Rowe will go down as one of the most important figures in modern commercial aviation. He was English, literally a boy genius, who at the age of 17 went to work at Britain’s deHaviland where he worked on the first jet engine technology captured from the Nazis. He emigrated to the United States, joined General Electric, and by the end of his career was the Chairman of GE’s jet engine division. Rowe was the man at the center of GE’s battle against Pratt Whitney, the executive who pushed the advances made in fighter engines into commercial aviation, and who led the team that developed one of the most important engines in modern aviation, the CF6.

The Wall Street Journal printed a remembrance on its front page last Saturday. From it, I quote:

“Former colleagues say his biggest technological accomplishment was the giant GE90 engine, the world’s largest and most powerful jet engine that now powers the long-range versions of the Boeing 777. That engine, whose outer diameter is roughly the same size as the fuselage of a single-aisle Boeing 737 and pioneered the use of lightweight composite fan blades, made it possible to go “undreamed-of distances on two engines,” says Mr. McNerney.

“The most recent version powered the Boeing 777-200LR that set the record for the longest nonstop commercial flight in 2005 when it flew from Hong Kong to London the long way. The flight crossed over the Pacific Ocean, the U.S. and the Atlantic Ocean, staying aloft for more than 22-and-a-half hours and covering a distance of 13,422 nautical miles.

“Former GE Chairman Jack Welch was among those who had reservations about the GE90. “Brian had total confidence in it,” Mr. Welch said yesterday, but “we were scared death of the technology. It was the first engine with the composite blade. It was going through the bird test and failing,” he added, referring to a test where air cannons fire dead chickens into the engine to simulate birds being sucked into engines during flight.

“The engine helped Boeing outsell Airbus in the market for large twin-aisle aircraft by a 2-to-1 margin. “It was the gutsiest call I’ve ever seen at GE,” says David Calhoun, a former GE vice chairman and formerly head of the aviation unit. “It’s changing the face of the competition between these two great giants,” he adds, referring to Boeing and Airbus. Mr. Rowe pushed both Boeing and GE to move ahead on the 777 design with two GE90 engines. He “had to convince Jack Welch it was something he could do and it wasn’t too risky. He had to convince Boeing it was a bet worth making,” says Mr. Calhoun, now CEO of the market-research firm, Nielsen Co.”

When I was 11 years old, Brian Rowe had a rare day off and wanted to go sailing. He called around and my father volunteered me to be his crew. Off we sailed into Nantucket Sound. I remember it was a breezy day, but the two of us could handle the boat just fine. He tied knots into the four corners of a handkerchief and made a funny hat he wore on his head to protect it from the sun. He reminded me of the actor, Terry Thomas, with a huge smile minus the gap in the front.

We had such a good sail that we stayed out late into the afternoon, until eventually we made our way into the harbor. Mr. Rowe was new to the Cape, and didn’t know the channel very well, and I was too timid to tell him he was out of the channel, so we ran aground, hard, on a falling tide. We jumped over the side and tried to push the boat off the sandbar, but that didn’t work. So we climbed back aboard and ate some crackers and resigned ourselves to an evening aboard until the tide turned and floated us off.

Then Leonard Peck came by in his tugboat, the Francis Minot, and offered to tow us off. He threw a line to me but the line was too big to tie around Mr. Rowe’s boat’s bow cleat. Mr. Rowe told me to tie a thinner line to Mr. Peck’s bigger line. Knowing my knots from Junior Seamanship, I knew the right knot for tying two lines of unequal diameters was a sheetbend.

I tied the sheetbend, made the lighter end fast to the cleat, and then sought refuge in the cabin in case the line parted and came shooting back. I looked out the companionway at Mr. Rowe, standing tall at the tiller, and as we slid off the sand saw his huge smile beam.

“You can come out now,” he said, so I went back to the bow and made ready to give Captain Peck his towline back.

The knot was frozen tight and there was no way I could get the lines to separate. So Brian came up and made a try, but the bend was frozen in place.

“Cut the thing and be done with it,” said Captain Peck. So we found a knife and sawed the lines apart.

“That’s one impressive goddamn knot,” Mr. Rowe said on the way into the mooring. “You’re quite the sailor.”

For some reason that piece of simple praise has stuck with me ever since. At the age of 11 the whole incident had high drama, and Mr. Rowe was the first adult to let me do my thing and assume I could do it. I’ve been inordinately vain about my seamanship ever since. I had no idea the man was a titan of aviation until much later, but the friendships formed with him, his wife Jill, and his children, David, Penny and Linda were more impressive.

A memorial service will be held at the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum in Washington next month.

What I am reading

The Road
I just finished Cormac McCarthy’s latest — The Road — and am sitting in stunned contemplation, utterly saddened and affected by one of the best pieces of contemporary literature I’ve read since Don DeLillo’s White Noise.

McCarthy’s tale is of a father and son making a hopeless pilgrimage to survival on the road from some unknown and undescribed point of devastation through a burned landscape to an unknown destination to the south, where there may be some warmth against the nuclear winter. The boy is perhaps 12, the father perhaps 40, together they wheel their shopping cart through the ash and snow, terrified of any other human contact in a world filled with cannibal marauders reduced to infanticide for their own survival.

To describe The Road as the most powerful caution against nuclear war is an understatement, and McCarthy makes that understatement by never describing how the world came to end. It’s simply over, finished, and the conclusion is so foregone that you read the spare language knowing where the journey ends, but unwilling to accept it in light of the love between the father and his son.

I can’t recommend this book — it’s a profoundly depressing read — but I will re-read it in some time, and will share it with my own sons as one of the most profound expressions of paternal love I have ever read. This is a little book but a big book, and made me think of the passages in Stephen King’s The Stand when the survivors make their way across the country of bicycles. Oh the number of times I wished for a carless road when I was a cyclist. After reading McCarthy’s grim tale, I know there will be no bikes in his future.

Heart of a Soldier

My step-father lent this to me last weekend and I burned through in three short flights. Story of Rick Rescorla, VP of security at Morgan Stanley, who perished when the towers collapsed on 9/11. Rescorla was a Brit who enlisted in the US Army, served as an officer in Viet Nam, was a Silver Star winner at the Battle of Ia Drang (reenacted by Mel Gibson in We Were Soldiers), and an all around Hemingway-style man’s man who did it all … from playing rugby in Rhodesia to shooting a lion. The book is not a tale of tragedy and terrorism, but of a remarkable friendship between Rescorla and his best friend and fellow Army officer, Daniel Hill. By James B. Stewart.

What Makes Sammy Run?

Budd Schulberg’s (On the Waterfront) classic tale of ambition and greed in Hollywood. It is the story of Sammy Glick, Lower East Side newspaper copyboy who rises to Tinsel Town prominence through backstabbing, plagiary, and utter weaselishness as told from the point of view of fellow Jew and writer, Al Mannheim. Good book, not a classic, but sort of essential in a Sweet Smell of Success sort of sense.

Durham foodie

One of the worst things about the road warrior life (I hate that term) is eating crap on the road. Trying to stay on the straight and healthy while living out of a suitcase in a Suite Hotel is pretty tough when you’re a workaholic and think working from 6 am to 9 pm is cool just because you don’t have a family to go home to.

I fell into some terrible habits the past year in North Carolina, habits brought on by the fact that there is more fast food in the Raleigh-Durham area, particularly around the Research Triangle Park, than anywhere else I have ever seen. We’re talking fast food you have never heard of before — or at least a northerner has never heard of. Bojangles? Fried chicken and iced tea. I am not proud to say I have tried them all, and not because I like a 2000 calorie cholesterol bomb, but because I am too tired to seek out a better alternative. Some colleagues who live the “suite life” have the smarts to go to a local grocery store and at the very least buy something half-way edible to run through the microwave in their hotel room’s kitchenette. I’ve tried that, too lazy.

So, as part of my pledge to myself to clean up my act in 2007, and in large part because I carry the auspicious title of executive sponsor to the corporate “wellness” initiative, I am on a crusade to identify healthy ways to eat around the office.

To the rescue comes my colleague, Kelly. She’s running a blog — Durham Foodie — which answers the question: Is there edible food around the Triangle.

The answer is yes, you just need to get smart and figure it out. Like the greek place on Miami and 54. Or the salad bar at the Harris-Teeter on Davis (home of the only Starbucks in the general vicinity). This week the company opens up a new cafeteria and cafe in the new headquarters buildings in Morrisville, hopefully ending my habit of chowing down two bags of Cheez-its for lunch.